Buying guides
Read one of these before you buy. They cover checking a used pair driver by driver, foam rot and what a good refoam looks like, telling a JBL L100 from an L100A or a 4311, the Klipsch Heresy, Cornwall and Forte generations, getting heavy speakers home, and matching speakers to your amp. New to vintage speakers? Start with how to check a used pair.
How to Check a Used Pair of Vintage Speakers
What to check on a used pair of vintage speakers, from every driver and crossover cap to crackly level controls, grilles, matched serials and veneer.
Read the guide →Foam Rot and Refoams: How to Read a Vintage Woofer
How foam rot shows in listing photos, how cloth and rubber surrounds age, what a good refoam looks like, and when a torn cone means more than a refoam.
Read the guide →JBL L100 Century vs L100A vs 4311: How to Tell Them Apart
How to tell a JBL L100 Century, the 1973 L100A, a 4310 and a 4311 apart by tweeter, controls, grille and badge, plus the L36 Decade and L65 Jubal.
Read the guide →Klipsch Heresy I vs Heresy II, Cornwall, Forte and KG 4: Generations and Tells
How to tell a Klipsch Heresy I from a Heresy II, an early Cornwall from a Cornwall II, and a Forte from a Forte II, plus what the KG 4 really is.
Read the guide →Local Pickup vs Freight for Heavy Vintage Speakers
How much common vintage speakers weigh, where the parcel limit sits, how LTL freight works, and how most sellers pack speakers that have to travel.
Read the guide →Matching Vintage Speakers to an Amp: Sensitivity and Impedance
How sensitivity and impedance decide which amp a vintage speaker needs, from 96 dB Klipsch horns to 4-ohm AR boxes and the Infinity Kappa 8's 2-ohm load.
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